Class April 25th 2010

Los Angele seminar April 25th 2010

Last day of the April seminar

Holding the scissor

Almost all the hair stylists “grab” the scissors instead of “holding” it.

If you do grab your scissors, your strong tendency is to cut on slanted angle.

When we teach we emphasis this point very clearly.

They understand in their mind, but actually cutting it is not easy to do it.

Diagram

When clients bring pictures of desired hairstyles, the stylists should be able to analyze/construct the design scheme and line thoroughly before actually start to cut the hair.

At this point, the students are looking through the hair magazines to see what interest them. When they find style, they will learn to transfered the hairstyle to a diagram form.

Cut start

Try to find out when you cutting hair about foot position and body movement

After having the diagram ready, we are set to actually cutting hair.

We will go over the foot position and body position.

#1)  Here, I am explaining the students how she should approach the haircut she chooses to do.

#2)Here, I am explaining the students how she should approach the haircut she chooses to do.

#3)Foot position is good but left hand is vertical to the top of the head

#4) Cutting the top of the head for standing behind the chair, his left foot position is placed at 12 O’clock, but his right foot points at 3 O’clock and his left hand is vertical to top of the head.

#1.                                                       .#2.         .#3.       .#4

#5) She is left handed. Her right foot at 12 O’clock and her left foot at 10 O’clock position is very good.

#6) At the front section his placement of foot and hand position are correct.

#7) She too, is left handed. Her foot position is correct. Her left hand is vertically placed, this is also good.

#5.                             .#6.                          . #7.

#8) She practices the body move with the instructor Taka. This is the best way to learn what you are doing,

However if you look closely,

you see the little difference.

Taka has his left foot at 12 O’clock and his left shoulder is pointing toward the cutting line.

Holding the scissors his wrist is bent vertically to cut the line.

Compare to Taka, her wrist is starlight and the scissors is pointing toward the hair.

#9)Left elbow is toward centre of the body and snug to body to hold hand study.

#8.                                         .#9.

#10)I am demonstrating here how to pull out the section for front cutting line.

#11) When you dry the hair, you must put dryer nozzle parallel to hairbrush, and hold the hair between the brush and the dryer that is the best way to dry hair faster and smoothly.

.#10.                                 .#11.

#12) Here, Taka is checking her hand and body position.

#13) Because Jim has a tendency to position himself to be off balanced, his foot position being 1 o’clock on left foot and 3 o’clock on his right foot. His body will be twistedto compensate, but the line is still cut off from the desired line.

#12                                      .#13.

#14)If she likes to make this section less bulky, I am advising her to use the thinning scissors to do it. When she dries the back of the head, she could  use the shoulder of the brush to further control the volume of nape area.

#15)She pulls the hair straight out of the head. This insures that each and every panels would be cut on the vertical line.

#14.                                                       .#15.

#16) Taka puts two tapes horizontally on the mirror so that she could watch she is nat bopping on her body movement.

#16

Finish

Timesha  just finished men’s hair cut.

(A)Photo( A) She finished cutting, but realized neck line is too long for men. She adjusted to the length as shown in the photo (B.)

A .                                     .B.



Weeraya did very short haircut and leaving the top longer. The hair was pulled to the side way to cut. The bottom hair is cut very short.

Jody try to do very interesting hair cut but not enough time to finish this time.

She will bring this to next seminar to finish it.

Body motion

About body motion
Every hairstylists know how to cut top of the head straight.

if somebody asks you to, but there are handful of stylists actually able to do so.

A)

I will show you how to do it first, pulling out bang section of  hair, straight up to cut horizontal to the head

1)left elbow come to side of the had to hair cut line        (2) left shoulder toward front

( 3) left foot is go to under the cheer and show the 12 clock  right foot go to 2 clock

I call 2 O’clock position, moving the body forward.

A’) Let’s see close up photo of left hand.

If the left hand is parallel to head and pull the hair you will cut horizontal line to head each and every time.

B)  Last position of top of the head

1〕Left elbow is at cutting position

(2) The back of body will be straight.

(3) Foot position is at 2 O’clock position.

B’) If you look at close up of left hand,

it is parallel to the head. If you pull up the hair from this position,  you will cut horizontal lime to the head

#A                   .#A’.                       .#B.               .#B’.

Look at Diana

A)

(1〕 The left elbow is behind the cutting line.

2) The left shoulder is not facing toward the cutting line and her back is flat.

3) Though her foot position is correctly at 2 o’clock, but her left foot is too close to her right foot. Her right foot should be well behind the left foot.

A’)  When you look at closely, the left elbow is on the cutting line but her fingers are not on horizontal position, more likely to be vertical to the head. This will not allow you to cut the straight line on top section of head.

#A .                              .#A’.

#B) back of the top of the head

1〕It is good that left elbow is aligned to the cutting line.

( 2) The body position is the first position and standing with back straight which is good

.( 3) She maintains the 2 o’clock position as she started,,,Good

#B’)Look at her left hand. It’s not horizontal to the head, because she is pulling the hair toward her at the same time she is pulling out the hair.

#C) Photo for front cut from front side

1)We don’t see the foot position, but it is at 2 o’clock position.

(2) As you’re facing the picture, look at the right shoulder, right shoulder is down and tilted toward front.

3) Her left elbow is at the correct position.  4) Her left hand and top of the heard is aligned parallel.

4〕The comb and fingers are moving together to pull the hair.

. #B.                .#B.’                     .#C.

How was Esther ?

A) 1)Her left elbow is quite off from the cutting line.

( 2) Left shoulder is the same as Diana, it is flat and not projecting forward.

3) Though her left foot position is at 12 o’clock, it should be placed closer to the chair. Right foot is pointing at 1 o’clock.

A”)  photo shows her left hand is not bend. However with this position, she will most likely pull her hair like Diana. She will end up cutting vertically instead of horizontally.

.#A.                          .#A.’

#B) last part of the top of the head

1)Her left elbow is way behind the cutting line.

2) The body position is straight and the same as previous move.

3) Her left food is positioned correctly, but her right foot is at 1 o’clock.。

This will restrict her from moving horizontally with ease.

#B.                     .#B’).

How about Connie?

A) 1)How is her left elbow positioned? It is away from her body.

2) Her left shoulder is positioned the best amongst students.

3) Her foot position is nat quite at 2 o’clock position, instead on a diagonal line from the cutting plane.

This  angle will make easier to cut, but the subsequent cutting will lessen the precision.

やはり左手は斜めに、カットする時には可なり頭部に対して垂直に成ってきます。

A) Close up look to left hand

Left hand is slanted. When the hair is cut with this angle, hand will be vertical and result in slanted cutting line.

#B) Last position of top of the head

1) The body position is at standing straight

2) Her left shoulder will move toward the cutting position.

3) The foot position is the same as at the beginning.

4) Her left elbow is behind the cutting position

#B”) With this position, she will end up bringing the hair toward her.

Thus her left hand will be vertical and slanted, ending the cut line being slanted.

.#A.              .A.”                                  .#B.                     . B’.

Left side of the head standing behind chair to cut straight out

#A

1) Standing behind the chair

2〕Foot position:  My left foot makes a half step forward from her right foot.

3〕 Bringing my  left elbow to the cutting line

#A’

4〕Apply her left hand snug to the head, then pull out the hair not with arm but with my whole body.

#B  Movement  of the body

5) As my left foot as a pivot point, move a bit. Take a large step with her right foot. My left foot is always a half step front of her left foot. With this same foot work, I cuts circling the chair.

.#A.                              .#A”.                   .#B1.             .#B2.

#C last position of the center of back of the head

Standing left side of chair, the left is placed a half foot forward from the right foot.

The left elbow is at center of the model wig.

.#B 3.               .#B4.         .#C.

#C As you can see in the picture, the left elbow is at the center of the model wig.

The left hand is parallel to the head.  With this position, using the entire body to pull out the section to be cut,

you are guaranteed to cut the back section vertically and accurately each and every time.

#C’

How was Diana doing?

#1)Her foot position, both feet are parallel. Her left elbow is very close to the cutting line.

#2) Her left hand is tilted to forward direction.

#3) If you cut at this position, she will bring the hair toward her.

#4)In the close up photo,

She is pulling her hair with only hand instead of using her whole body.

Also her left pinky is placed on the head. All these placement will naturally end up cutting on a slanted angle. 

.1.           .2.           .3.                              . 4.

Movement  of the body

From the right side to the back, she cuts each panels stationary and cutting only with hand maneuvering ,

she will attempt cut the back section standing at #8 photo.

This creates her left elbow to push out the hair in forward direction, thus end up cutting in slanted angle.

.5.               .6.               .7.           .8.

How was Esther?

#1For foot positioning, her left foot is a half foot forward and her left elbow is behind the cutting line.

#2 Is she pulling out the hair form the position?

#3 In the close up photo

shows that she is scooping up the hair with comb and bringing the hair toward to her side.

Unfortunately, she is pulling out hair only with her arm, not using her whole body.

#4For cutting the hair toward the back of the head, She tries to move the body.

. #1.                       .#2.                                   .#3.                 .#4.

##4,5,6,7 Her left foot is stationary and moving down only her right foot to cut hair.

With this way of moving, she will likely end up cutting a slanted angle.

.#5.         .#6.       .#7.

How was Connie doing?

#1Her stance at the back section,

Is her foot position at 2 o’clock?         Her foot positioning is off to the right.

Therefore her body position is shifted to her right as well.

#2 At this position,

you have a better view of the hair, but because of her body is not aligned to the cutting plane,

her left elbow is front of the culling line.

#3

let’s look at the close up photo. Because of her left elbow being front of the cutting line, pulling out hair a bit twisted to standing position up to vertical to the side of the head, this will create finished line being slanted.

.#1.                        #2.                                            .#3.

Moving the body

Ideally her body should be moving as cutting progresses. Because her left foot is stationary and only her right foot is moving, the end result will be similar to Esther. The finished line would be slanted.

Moving the body #3

Pull out the hair toward to your way

#1

Foot position is at 2 o’clock.  body starting from close to head, pulling out the hair, making sure left elbow is close to the center of your body and pulling out the hair with your whole body.

#2

The close up photo shows that the fingers are vertical to the head.

.#1.                      .#2.

#3

Staying at the same position, using the comb to guide, your body will move back

#4close up photo shows and it seems to be fingers are not vertical. This is to compensate the width of fingers.

Thickness of fingers at the root is thicker than tips.

.#3.                       .#4.

#5、#6 The photo shows that west is moving by comparing two photos by checking the table on the background.

#6

On this photo, you see the edge of table is not shown because my hip moved backward.

.#5.                                 .#6.

How was Diana doing?

#1The foot position is at 2 o’clock, body position at forward position though her left arm is too far from her body which worries me.

#2

My concern is that hand is vertical to the head and elbow is far from the body.

.#1.                            .#2.

#3

She pulls out the hair by moving her waist.

#4

You see the thumb because her elbow is not close to her body. This will force her to bring the hair toward her rather than pulling out vertically. Her head is not at the center, but looking at cutting. The comb moves to the guideline of previous cut hair. The elbow is in open position.

.#3.                                   .#4.

How is she pulling out the hair?

#5photo, check her waist position relationship to the table in the background. #6 She pulls the hair by bending her waist.

This way, percentage of cutting correctly is low especially her arm is not locked in, the cutting angle cannot be constant.

.#5.                 .#6.

How was Esther?

#1

Her foot position is at 2 o’clock. Her body has moved forward to pull out the hair. Her elbow is close to her body.

#2

Her left hand id vertical to the head. It seems to me her left elbow is a little open?

.#1.                      .#2.


#3 Pulling out the hair.

#4

In this close up photo, let’s look at her left hand and the angle of the scissors. She is about to pull out the hair a bit to the left. My main concern is how she’s holding her scissors. This will cause her to cut always top side short and gets longer as in layers.
.#3.                                      .#4.

#5、#6

It is apparent that she is not fully utilizing her body motion to pull out the hair.

.#5.            .#6.

How about Connie doing ?

#1

Foot position is at 2 o’clock position and her left elbow is at close position.

#2

The close up photo shows her left hand is vertical to the head.

.#1.                        .#2.

#3

hen she brings out the hair with body movement.

#4

How about her left hand angle? It is good that she pulls out the hair vertical to the head.

.#3.                    .#4.

#5、#6

Please check her waist  movement by looking at the table in the background. The hip moves forward to get the hair. Her left elbow is at her center of the body. She shows the best placement and position of her body amongst three students.
.#5.         .#6.

Now, we will see how they do the diagram of intended hair design

onnie has picked this photo to convert to the diagram.

Diana has picked which is basically a bob with the concave in the middle of the head.

Esther’s choice is the style with long on front and the rest is short.

By diagraming, each students understand the architectural form of design  and now ready to cut.

#1

Esther’s feet are parallel. completely forgetting her foot position though her left hand is always vertical to the head.

#2

Connie is cutting the side of head. If her left foot is facing a bit more toward 12 o’clock, it will be good.

.#1.                   .#2.

#3

As Diana is cutting the front section, her foot position is at parallel, not 2 o’clock as desired.

#4

At the side and back in the middle section she will put concave. For this purpose, she has an excellent angle.

I cannot see her feet, but I presume her feet are parallel or closer. Her left elbow is closer to side of her body which indicates she is not standing at 2 o’clock position.
.#3.                             .#4.

Here Taka is explaining in detail.

How about finish hair cut??

How did Connie do? Besides hair color not being the same, she has done it close to the picture.

How about Esther??

The front section needs a bit more work, but as a whole the line is there.

How was Diana?

She has transferred the general concept quite well. To refine the cut, she needs to cut the bangs shorter, use the thinning shears to take volume out and fore the final touch use the flat iron.

.

Summery

Through this session, you could understand the importance of correct body motion, foot position, body position, angle of hand and elbow position. In order to execute the design the way you conceived, requires all these fundamentals become the integral part of consistency and precision of good haircut.

It has been said that element of producing haircut is either due to having an instinct, feeling. or born with it.

That might be true. However to become a master hair cutter, you need above all to practice until it becomes second nature to you.

What is the Fundamental of haircut?

First of all hand and fingers must be supple.

It is imperative to “hold” the scissors and be able to adapt to any angle  of the creative designs calls for without straining your body.

To learn the body, hand, and fingers how they move from the body axle( defining the center of your body) so that you will cut consistent line.

To train and master the relationship between the cut line and foot position and body motion, is to have the complete control.

Not to loose the sight of the guide line, and be able to add the next section to it with the comb, hair going through between two fingers.

By mastering above mentioned fundamentals. provided that you do practice, you will find hair cutting simple and effortless. At the same time your ability to grasp the concept of converting the design into diagram, your process of understanding will enhanced and more power to develop and transfer the ideas to hair cutting.

There! Now you will have lots of fun cutting hair!

Comments
2 Responses to “Class April 25th 2010”
  1. nena ancheta says:

    i watcht your vidieos and i really like it positioning your body when you doing hair is a must to all of us hairstylist. awesome class mr.mogi .update me thru email for your future classess.

    thank you

    Nena.

    • hairmogi says:

      you took a class 09
      If you have DVD please look and stop to practice same time that you will be very quickly to good hair cutter
      If you live near by us please come to the class same day
      I will sending to you our class information to you

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